We begin crocheting with a magic ring and continue working on the right side throughout. The doily consists of a central five-pointed star motif, which gradually develops into a ten-pointed flower.

You can easily influence the final look by choosing different color combinations – for example, brown and yellow create a sunflower-like, summery effect, while a white version looks elegant, timeless, and beautiful on the table all year round. This motif is very versatile and also works perfectly as a base for a mandala or a dreamcatcher.

I tested both 1.8 mm and 2 mm hooks, and with my tension there was a difference of about 3–5 cm before blocking. Depending on your tension or hook size, adjust the number of chain stitches accordingly. If the doily curls into a bowl shape, you have too few stitches. If it ruffles or waves, you have too many stitches.

If you plan to use the doily as a table decoration, I recommend starching it. I had great results with Alba Effect starch, a polystyrene board, cling film, and fine stainless pins that do not rust and help you shape the doily beautifully. Everything is demonstrated in the video tutorial.

You will find the chart for the doily below the text. It is presented row by row, but you will be working in the round. The entire doily is crocheted on the right side in one direction. Start with Part I of the chart, where the magic ring is indicated.

I hope your Nostalgia Doily turns out beautifully and brings you joy.  If you feel like inspiring others or sharing your experience with crocheting or styling the doily, I would love to see your photos! You can share your photos in the Krampolinka Facebook group. On Instagram, please use the hashtag #deckanostalgie so others can easily find your projects.  If you tag me in your creations made using my patterns, I can reshare them in my Instagram Stories to inspire others.

NOSTALGIA DOILY

Yarn: Puppets Eldorado or Anchor Freccia
Yarn usage: 1 ball makes approx. 3 doilies 
Hook: 1.8 mm Tulip crochet hooks (smaller) or 2 mm Tulip crochet hooks (larger)
Dimensions: 
– smaller: approx. 25 cm before blocking / 28 cm after blocking
– larger: approx. 27–28 cm before blocking / 34 cm after blocking

Tools: yarn needle (large eye), starch, pins, blocking board
Time required: approx. 2–3 hours + blocking
Skill level: beginner-friendly

Abbreviations:
ch – chain stitch
MR – magic ring
dc – double crochet
sc – single crochet
sl st – slip stitch

INNER MOTIF OF THE DOILY (1.8 mm hook)

Round 1: Into a magic ring (MR), crochet 3 ch (counts as the first dc), then 16 dc. Join with a slip stitch (sl st) into the 2nd chain of the starting chain. (17)

Round 2: 3 ch (counts as first dc), then 2 dc into the same stitch. Work 2 dc into each dc around. Join with sl st. (35)

Round 3: 3 ch (counts as first dc). Crochet 6 dc into the next stitches, 2 ch. Pattern for this round: 7 dc into the next 7 stitches, 2 ch. Repeat. Join with sl st.

Round 4: Sl st into the next stitch. 3 ch (counts as first dc), then 4 dc into the next 4 dc. 3 ch, 1 dc under the chain space, 3 ch. Skip 1 dc, 5 dc into the next 5 dc, 3 ch, 1 dc under the chain space, 3 ch. Repeat. Join with sl st.

Round 5: Sl st into the next stitch. 3 ch (counts as first dc), then 2 dc into the next 2 dc. 4 ch, 1 dc under the chain space, 4 ch, 1 dc under the chain space, 4 ch. Skip 1 dc, 3 dc into the next 3 dc, 4 ch, 1 dc under the chain space, 4 ch, 1 dc under the chain space, 4 ch. Repeat. Join with sl st.

Round 6: Sl st into the next stitch. 3 ch (counts as first dc) and 1 dc into the same stitch. 4 ch, 1 dc under the chain space, 4 ch, 1 dc under the chain space, 4 ch, 1 dc under the chain space, 4 ch, and into the middle of the three dc work 2 dc. Repeat. End the round with 2 ch and 1 dc into the 3rd chain of the starting chain. Finish in the middle of the arch.

Round 7: 3 ch (counts as first dc). Work around the entire round: 5 ch and 1 dc under the chain space. At the end of the round, crochet 5 ch and join with a sl st into the 2nd chain of the starting chain.

CONTINUATION OF THE DOILY MOTIF (1.8 mm hook)

Round 8: 3 ch (counts as first dc) and 6 dc under the first arch. Pattern for this round: 7 dc under each arch around the entire doily. Join with a slip stitch (sl st) into the 2nd chain of the starting chain.

Round 9: 3 ch (counts as first dc), then 13 dc into the next stitches, 1 ch. Pattern for this round: 14 dc into the next 14 stitches, 1 ch. Join with sl st into the 2nd chain of the starting chain.

Round 10: Sl st into the next stitch, 3 ch (counts as first dc), then 11 dc into the next stitches, 2 ch, 1 dc under the chain space, 2 ch. Pattern for this round: skip 1 dc, 12 dc into the next stitches, 2 ch, 1 dc under the chain space, 2 ch. Join with sl st into the 2nd chain of the starting chain.

Round 11: Sl st into the next stitch, 3 ch (counts as first dc), then 9 dc into the next stitches, 2 ch, 1 dc under the chain space, 2 ch, 1 dc under the chain space, 2 ch. Pattern for this round: skip 1 dc, 10 dc into the next stitches, 2 ch, 1 dc under the chain space, 2 ch, 1 dc under the chain space, 2 ch. Join with sl st into the 2nd chain of the starting chain.

Rounds 12–13: Same as Round 11. Sl st into the next stitch, 3 ch (counts as first dc). Decrease in a star shape by skipping 1 dc at the beginning of the round and omitting 1 dc at the end of each motif, resulting in groups of 8 and then 6 dc. Between the star points, crochet 2–3 ch and 1 dc under the chain space. Join with sl st into the 2nd chain of the starting chain.

Rounds 14–15: Same as Round 11. Sl st into the next stitch, 3 ch (counts as first dc). Continue decreasing in a star shape by skipping 1 dc at the beginning and omitting 1 dc at the end of each motif, resulting in groups of 4 and then 2 dc. Between the star points, crochet 3 ch and 1 dc under the chain space. Join with sl st into the 2nd chain of the starting chain.

Round 16: 3 ch (counts as first dc), 4 ch, 1 dc under the chain space (repeat 8 times). Between the opposite star points, crochet 1 dc, then continue with 4 ch and 1 dc under the chain space (8 times). Join with sl st into the 2nd chain of the starting chain.

Note: Before and after the dc stitches, I found it works well to crochet 2–3 ch instead of 4 ch, depending on your tension.

DOILY BORDER (1.8 mm hook)

Round 17: 3 ch (counts as first dc) and 3 dc under the arch. Pattern for this round: 1 dc into the next dc, 3 dc under the arch. Join with a slip stitch (sl st) into the 2nd chain of the starting chain.

Round 18: 3 ch (counts as first dc), ch 3, sc into the 4th chain from the hook, dc into the same stitch, repeat (ch 3, sc into the 4th chain from the hook, dc into the same stitch) three times in total. Skip 3 stitches, then work 3 sc into the next 3 dc, skip 3 stitches.

Pattern for this round: into one stitch work dc, ch 3, sc into the 4th chain from the hook, dc, ch 3, sc into the 4th chain from the hook, dc, ch 3, sc into the 4th chain from the hook, dc; skip 3 stitches, work 3 sc into the next 3 dc, skip 3 stitches. Repeat around. At the end of the round, join with a slip stitch. Fasten off the yarn and weave in all loose ends.

STARCHING (BLOCKING)

Dilute ALBA EFEKT starch with a small amount of water. Soak the doily in the starch solution, then squeeze out the excess thoroughly. Place the doily on a polystyrene board covered with cling film. Using fine stainless pins (pink ones are stronger and firmer, black ones are thinner but slightly flexible), block the doily into a perfect circular shape. Let it dry completely.

Finishing

Weave in all loose ends. Do not pull too tightly, as the yarn may break. Add a decorative label if desired.