Blue Cardigan – Crochet Raglan Top

4 června, 2026

A simple crochet pattern for a cardigan with a raglan yoke and a V-neckline. We will crochet a cardigan from a gradient yarn cake – a piece you can wear all year round.

Crochet cardigans are among my favourite projects. This cardigan is crocheted from a Design Yarn gradient cake called Zimní 1, but for this season I simply named it MODRÝ – Blue. I used a 1500 m / 300 g yarn cake, a 3-ply yarn with an irregular colour gradient and a viscose thread. Thanks to this, the cardigan has a subtle metallic sheen. I bought this yarn cake from Hravá klubka.cz.

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VIDEO TUTORIAL PREMIERE – PART I Now with automatically generated subtitles. Did you know that you can slow down a YouTube video and adjust it to your own crochet pace?

VIDEO TUTORIAL PREMIERE – PART II Now with automatically generated subtitles. Did you know that you can slow down a YouTube video and adjust it to your own crochet pace?

We crochet the cardigan from the raglan yoke downwards. The yoke is made of three raglan sections, while the fourth side forms the V-neckline. The sleeves are worked in an openwork pattern, and the front and back panels are made with double crochet stitches. We crochet back and forth in rows, which also naturally increases the stitches along the neckline on the front panels. Once we reach an armhole depth of approximately 20–21 cm, we join the yoke and continue working back and forth in rows. At the same time, we gradually widen the neckline. When the front points of the neckline are long enough, we cross them over each other and join them together by crocheting in the round, which fixes them in place.

Fasten off the yarn and join it again at the side, in line with the underarm extension – this is where the main body of the cardigan begins. Work back and forth in rows until the colour transition is finished. Then fasten off the yarn and unwind the individual colour transitions. Weigh each transition and divide its weight into quarters. Use one quarter for the first sleeve, the second quarter for the second sleeve, and the remaining two quarters for the body of the cardigan.

The body of the cardigan is crocheted back and forth in rows. By gradually increasing within the pattern, we shape the cardigan according to our own body and pay attention to the side seam placement.

TIP: I found it helpful to crochet three turning chains instead of the first double crochet stitch, and to join with a slip stitch into the second chain of the turning chain at the end of the row. This keeps the seam straight and subtle. Turn your work after each row. If you do not want a seam at all, you can work in joined rounds, crocheting in the round. In this case, however, the stitch pattern will be slightly different from the pattern used on the yoke.

I finished the bottom hem of the cardigan and the sleeve cuffs with a shell stitch pattern. For the deep neckline, I crocheted an insert using Anchor Freccia yarn.

TIP: If you do not want the neckline to be so deep, you can crochet, for example, five double crochet stitches on each side in the very first row of the front panel, and only then start the edge pattern. This way, the neckline will “meet” in the centre sooner and will not be as deep.

I hope your Blue Cardigan turns out beautifully. If you would like to inspire others or share your experience with crocheting or styling the cardigan, I would be very happy to see your photos. You can share your photos in the Krampolinka Facebook group. On Instagram, please use the hashtag #svetrikmodry so they are easy to find. If you tag me in projects made from my patterns, I may reshare them in my Instastories to inspire others.

BLUE CARDIGAN

Yarn: Design Yarn gradient cake Zimní 1, purchased from Hravá klubka
Yarn amount: 1500 m / 3-ply + 1 viscose thread; Anchor Freccia from Bavlnkarna for the neckline insert
Hook size: 2.5 mm and 2 mm
Finished measurements: front length 62 cm, bottom width 56 cm, sleeve length 52 cm
Size: the cardigan is crocheted for size 42, bust circumference 96 cm
Other supplies: tapestry needle, decorative label, stitch markers
Time required: approximately 60 hours
Skill level: suitable for beginners

Abbreviations:
ch – chain stitch
sl st – slip stitch
dc – double crochet
sc – single crochet

The edge pattern along the neckline consists of:
3 dc cluster – ch 1 – 3 dc cluster

The corner of the yoke consists of:
3 dc cluster – ch 2 – 3 dc cluster

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Beginning of the yoke, 2.5 mm hook

Row 1: Unwind part of the first colour transition; we will use this later for crocheting around the neckline. Crochet a foundation chain of 100 chains, turn.

Yoke, 2 mm hook

Row 2: For the neckline edge trim, crochet 4 ch instead of the first dc. Insert the hook into the fourth chain and crochet 2 dc cluster – ch 1 – 3 dc cluster. Then crochet 2 ch, and into the same stitch where you worked the neckline edge trim, crochet the yoke corner: 3 dc cluster – ch 2 – 3 dc cluster. For the sleeve section, crochet 4 ch, skip 2 stitches, sc into the third stitch. Repeat this 6 times. Finish with 4 ch, and into the third stitch crochet the yoke corner: 3 dc cluster – ch 2 – 3 dc cluster, then ch 1. For the back section, crochet dc into each chain, 56 dc in total. Finish with ch 1. Then crochet the yoke corner: 3 dc cluster – ch 2 – 3 dc cluster. Continue with the sleeve section: 4 ch, skip 2 stitches, sc into the third stitch. Repeat this 6 times. Finish with 4 ch, and into the last stitch crochet the yoke corner: 3 dc cluster – ch 2 – 3 dc cluster and, at the same time, the neckline edge trim: 3 dc cluster – ch 1 – 3 dc cluster. Turn.

Note: The yoke can also be described as follows: neckline stitch and yoke corner at the same time + 20 sleeve stitches + yoke corner stitch + 56 back stitches + yoke corner stitch + 20 sleeve stitches + yoke corner and neckline stitch at the same time. I recommend marking the corners with stitch markers.

Row 3: Crochet the front panel, starting with the neckline edge trim, which is always formed by ch 1 and sl st under the ch 1 from the previous row. The turning chain replacing the first dc is made of 3 ch, then crochet 2 dc cluster – ch 1 – 3 dc cluster, ch 1. Under the ch 1, crochet 2 dc, ch 1. Yoke corner: 3 dc cluster – ch 2 – 3 dc cluster. Sleeve: 3 ch, 2 dc under the first arch from the previous row. Then crochet 4 ch and 2 dc under the next arch. The sleeve section ends with 2 dc under the arch and 3 ch. Yoke corner: 3 dc cluster – ch 2 – 3 dc cluster. Back section: ch 1, dc under ch 1. Then crochet dc into each dc. The back section ends with dc under ch 1, ch 1. Yoke corner: 3 dc cluster – ch 2 – 3 dc cluster. Sleeve: 3 ch, 2 dc under the first arch from the previous row. Then crochet 4 ch and 2 dc under the next arch. The sleeve section ends with 2 dc under the arch and 3 ch. Yoke corner: 3 dc cluster – ch 2 – 3 dc cluster. Front panel: ch 1, 2 dc under ch 1, ch 1, and finish with the neckline edge trim: 3 dc cluster – ch 1 – 3 dc cluster. Turn.

Row 4: Crochet the front panel, starting with the neckline edge trim, which is always formed by ch 1 and sl st under the ch 1 from the previous row. The turning chain replacing the first dc is made of 3 ch, then crochet 2 dc cluster – ch 1 – 3 dc cluster. Crochet ch 1, and under the ch 1 from the previous row crochet dc. Then crochet dc into each dc. Finish the front panel with dc under ch 1 and ch 1. Yoke corner: 3 dc cluster – ch 2 – 3 dc cluster. Sleeve: 3 ch, 2 dc under the first arch from the previous row. Then crochet 4 ch and 2 dc under the next arch. The sleeve section ends with 2 dc under the arch and 3 ch. Yoke corner: 3 dc cluster – ch 2 – 3 dc cluster. Back section: ch 1 and dc under ch 1. Then crochet dc into each dc. The back section ends with dc under ch 1 and ch 1. Yoke corner: 3 dc cluster – ch 2 – 3 dc cluster. Sleeve: 3 ch, 2 dc under the first arch from the previous row. Then crochet 4 ch and 2 dc under the next arch. The sleeve section ends with 2 dc under the arch and 3 ch. Yoke corner: 3 dc cluster – ch 2 – 3 dc cluster. Front panel: ch 1, dc under ch 1, dc into dc, dc under ch 1 and ch 1, and finish with the neckline edge trim: 3 dc cluster – ch 1 – 3 dc cluster. Turn.

Rows 5–17: Crochet in the same way as Row 4.

Joining the yoke, 2 mm hook

Row 18: Crochet the front panel, starting with the neckline edge trim, which is always formed by ch 1 and sl st under the ch 1 from the previous row. The turning chain replacing the first dc is made of 3 ch, then crochet 2 dc cluster – ch 1 – 3 dc cluster. Crochet ch 1 and dc under ch 1. Then crochet dc into each dc. Finish the front panel with dc under ch 1, ch 1. Crochet the yoke corner: 3 dc cluster – ch 2 – 3 dc cluster, ch 1. Skip the sleeve section, crochet ch 1 and one foundation chain stitch in the underarm, then crochet the next corner: 3 dc cluster – ch 2 – 3 dc cluster. Continue with the back panel: ch 1, dc under ch 1, dc into each dc. Finish with dc under ch 1, ch 1. Corner: 3 dc cluster – ch 2 – 3 dc cluster, ch 1. Skip the sleeve section, crochet ch 1 and one foundation chain stitch in the underarm, then crochet the next corner: 3 dc cluster – ch 2 – 3 dc cluster. Continue with the front panel: ch 1, dc under ch 1, dc into each dc. Finish with dc under ch 1 and ch 1, then crochet the neckline edge trim: 3 dc cluster – ch 1 – 3 dc cluster. Turn.

Row 19: Crochet the front panel, starting with the neckline edge trim, which is always formed by ch 1 and sl st under the ch 1 from the previous row. The turning chain replacing the first dc is made of 3 ch, then crochet 2 dc cluster – ch 1 – 3 dc cluster. Crochet ch 1, dc under ch 1. Then crochet dc into each dc. Finish the front panel with dc under ch 1, ch 1. Into the yoke corner pattern from the previous row, crochet dc into the cluster stitch, 2 dc under ch 1, dc into the cluster stitch. Then crochet 2 dc into the underarm stitch. Work the yoke corner pattern on the opposite side in the same way: dc into the cluster stitch, 2 dc under ch 1, dc into the cluster stitch, and dc under ch 1. Continue with dc into each dc. Crochet the opposite armhole and the front panel in the same way. Turn.

Rows 20–25: Crochet in the same way as Row 19. Do not forget to turn your work after each row. Crochet as many rows as needed until the front neckline panels overlap.

Joining the front panels and the body of the cardigan, 2 mm hook

Row 26: In this row, cross the front panels so that 7 double crochet stitches overlap. Secure them with stitch markers and fasten off the yarn. Join the yarn at the side, in line with the armhole extension. Crochet 3 ch instead of the first dc and continue with dc into each dc. When you reach the crossed section, 7 double crochet stitches from the end of the edge pattern, insert the hook under the ch in the neckline edge trim and at the same time into the dc. First crochet the continuation of the neckline pattern. Then join both panels together with dc stitches. Continue with dc into each dc to the end of the row. Finish the row with sl st into the second chain of the turning chain. Turn.

Note: Crochet as many rows as needed to finish the colour transition. Fasten off the yarn and unwind the next colour transitions into separate small balls. Weigh the yarn ball and use one quarter of the colour transition for one sleeve, the second quarter for the other sleeve, and the remaining yarn for the body of the cardigan.

Body of the cardigan, 2 mm hook

Rows 27–46: Crochet back and forth in rows. Crochet 3 ch instead of the first dc. Place a stitch marker into the second chain of the turning chain. Crochet dc into each dc. Finish the row with sl st into the marked chain. Turn.

Row 47: In this row, increase in every 20th stitch.

Rows 48–50: Crochet in the same way as Row 27. Do not forget to turn your work.

Row 51: In this row, increase in every 20th stitch.

Rows 52–69: Crochet in the same way as Row 27. Do not forget to turn your work. In the last row, fasten off the yarn.

Note: Adjust the frequency of increases to your own body shape. I usually start increasing from the lower rib area. The number of rows depends on your height and the material used. I used 7 colour transitions for the sleeves.

Bottom hem of the cardigan, 2 mm or 2.5 mm hook

Row 70: Crochet on the right side. Shell: 3 ch instead of the first dc, 2 dc – ch 2 – 3 dc into one stitch, skip 3 stitches, and into the fourth stitch crochet a shell: 3 dc – ch 2 – 3 dc. Skip 4 stitches, and into the fifth stitch crochet a shell. Repeat this pattern to the end of the row. Finish the row with sl st.

Tip: At the beginning of the row, crochet only half of the shell, i.e. 3 ch and 2 dc, then continue with the pattern repeat. At the end of the row, finish with 3 dc and sc into the second chain of the turning chain. This way, you remain in the centre of the shell arch and do not need to move with slip stitches.

Rows 71–73: Use sl st to move under the ch in the shell, where you crochet 3 ch and 2 dc – ch 2 – 3 dc into the centre of the shell under the ch. Finish the row with sl st.

Sleeve, 2 mm hook

Row 1: Join the yarn in the underarm into the ch and crochet 3 ch instead of the first dc, then dc into the neighbouring stitch. Then crochet 4/3 ch and 2 dc under the ch in the sleeve section. At the end of the row, crochet the last two dc under the ch arch, and instead of the arch, crochet ch 1 and dc into the turning chain stitch. This way, you remain in the centre of the arch. Turn and crochet on the wrong side.

Rows 2–29: Crochet 3 ch instead of the first dc and dc under the arch, 4/3 ch. Continue with the pattern: 2 dc under the arch and 4/3 ch. Finish the row with ch 1 and dc into the turning chain stitch, turn.

Row 30: In this row, decrease. Crochet 3 ch instead of the first dc, dc under ch, 3 ch. To decrease, do not crochet the second-to-last arch in the row, so you will have two dc under one arch and two dc under the following arch. Finish the row with ch 1 and dc into the turning chain stitch, turn.

Row 31: Crochet 3 ch instead of the first dc, dc into sl st, 3 ch. Continue with the pattern: 2 dc under the arch and 3 ch. Finish the row with ch 1 and dc into the turning chain stitch, turn.

Rows 32–33: Crochet 3 ch instead of the first dc and dc under the arch, 3 ch. Continue with the pattern: 2 dc under the arch and 3 ch. Finish the row with ch 1 and dc into the turning chain stitch, turn.

Row 34: In this row, decrease. Crochet 3 ch instead of the first dc, dc under ch, 3 ch. To decrease, do not crochet the second-to-last arch in the row, so you will have two dc under one arch and two dc under the following arch. Finish the row with ch 1 and dc into the turning chain stitch, turn.

Row 35: Crochet 3 ch instead of the first dc, dc under the arch, 3 ch. Continue with the pattern: 2 dc under the arch and 3 ch. Finish the row with ch 1 and dc into the turning chain stitch, turn.

Row 36: Crochet 3 ch instead of the first dc and dc under the arch, 3 ch. Continue with the pattern: 2 dc under the arch and 3 ch. Finish the row with ch 1 and dc into the turning chain stitch, turn.

Row 37: In this row, decrease. Crochet 3 ch instead of the first dc, dc under ch, 3 ch. To decrease, do not crochet the second-to-last arch in the row, so you will have two dc under one arch and two dc under the following arch. Finish the row with ch 1 and dc into the turning chain stitch, turn.

Row 38: Crochet 3 ch instead of the first dc, dc into sl st, 3 ch. Continue with the pattern: 2 dc under the arch and 3 ch. Finish the row with ch 1 and dc into the turning chain stitch, turn.

Rows 39–42: Crochet 3 ch instead of the first dc and dc under the arch, 3 ch. Continue with the pattern: 2 dc under the arch and 3 ch. Finish the row with ch 1 and dc into the turning chain stitch. Crochet the cuff on the right side.

Sleeve cuff, 2 mm hook

Row 1: Crochet 3 ch instead of the first dc, 2 dc under the arch. Crochet 3 dc under the next arch, then a shell: 3 dc – ch 1 – 3 dc under the following arch. Continue to the end of the row with the repeat: 3 dc under the arch, 3 dc under the next arch, 3 dc – ch 1 – 3 dc under the arch. At the end of the row, make sure the shell pattern is complete. Finish the row with sl st.

Row 2: Crochet half of the pattern, i.e. 3 ch and 2 dc under the arch. Then crochet the pattern 3 dc – ch 1 – 3 dc either under ch 1 or between two groups of stitches. Finish the row with 3 dc under ch 1 and sc into the turning chain stitch.

Rows 3–5: Crochet half of the pattern, i.e. 3 ch and 2 dc under the arch. Then crochet the pattern 3 dc – ch 1 – 3 dc under ch 1. Finish the row with 3 dc under ch 1 and sc into the turning chain stitch.

Note: Adjust the number of sleeve rows, the shaping method, and the number of cuff rows according to your arm length.

Neckline edging, 2 mm hook

Row 1: Join the yarn in the first stitch of the yoke. Crochet 3 ch instead of the first dc, 2 dc cluster – ch 1 – 3 dc cluster. Then crochet the pattern 3 dc cluster – ch 1 – 3 dc cluster into each stitch where you crocheted sc. Finish the row with 3 ch and sl st. Fasten off the yarn.

Neckline insert, white Freccia yarn, 2 mm hook

Row 1: Into a magic ring, crochet 3 ch and 2 dc cluster, ch 1 and 3 dc cluster, ch 1. Then crochet the point of the insert: 3 dc cluster – ch 3 – 3 dc cluster, ch 1. Finish with 3 dc cluster – ch 1 – 3 dc cluster. Turn.

Row 2: Crochet ch 1 and sl st under the ch 1 between the stitch groups. Here crochet 3 ch and 2 dc cluster – ch 1 – 3 dc cluster, ch 1. Crochet 3 dc cluster – ch 1 – 3 dc cluster under the ch 1 between the stitch groups. At the point, crochet 3 dc cluster – ch 3 – 3 dc cluster, ch 1. Crochet 3 dc cluster – ch 1 – 3 dc cluster under the ch 1 between the stitch groups, ch 1, and finish with 3 dc cluster – ch 1 – 3 dc cluster under ch 1. Turn.

Row 3: Crochet ch 1 and sl st under the ch 1 between the stitch groups. Here crochet 3 ch and 2 dc cluster – ch 1 – 3 dc cluster, ch 2. Crochet 3 dc cluster – ch 1 – 3 dc cluster under ch 1, ch 2. At the point, crochet 3 dc cluster – ch 2 – 3 dc cluster – ch 2 – 3 dc cluster. Then crochet ch 2 and 3 dc cluster – ch 1 – 3 dc cluster under ch 1, ch 2. Finish with 3 dc cluster – ch 1 – 3 dc cluster under ch 1. Turn.

Row 4: Crochet ch 1 and sl st under the ch 1 between the stitch groups. Here crochet 3 ch and 2 dc cluster – ch 1 – 3 dc cluster, ch 1. Under the ch 1 in the pattern and also between the stitch groups, crochet 3 dc cluster – ch 1 – 3 dc cluster, ch 1. At the point, crochet into the middle cluster stitch: 3 dc cluster – ch 3 – 3 dc cluster, ch 1. Crochet the second half of the insert as a mirror image. Turn.

Row 5: Crochet ch 1 and sl st under the ch 1 between the stitch groups. Here crochet 3 ch and 2 dc cluster – ch 1 – 3 dc cluster, ch 2. Only under the ch 1 in the pattern, crochet 3 dc cluster – ch 1 – 3 dc cluster under ch 1, ch 2. At the point, crochet 3 dc cluster – ch 2 – 3 dc cluster – ch 2 – 3 dc cluster, ch 2. Crochet the second half of the insert as a mirror image. Turn.

Row 6: Crochet ch 1 and sl st under the ch 1 between the stitch groups. Here crochet 3 ch and 2 dc cluster – ch 1 – 3 dc cluster, ch 1. Under the ch 1 in the pattern and also between the stitch groups, crochet 3 dc cluster – ch 1 – 3 dc cluster, ch 1. At the point, crochet into the middle cluster stitch: 3 dc cluster – ch 3 – 3 dc cluster, ch 1. Crochet the second half of the insert as a mirror image. If the edge becomes wavy, skip crocheting under the ch 1 between the stitch groups once on each side. Fasten off the yarn.

Finishing

Weave in all loose ends. Add a decorative label.

Copyright Notice

This pattern is for personal use only. For commercial use, please contact me directly. Always include the source credit: www.krampolinka.com. The pattern is designed specifically for this yarn, hook size, and my personal tension. If you use a different yarn, hook, or tension, your final product may vary in size or shape.

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