Crocheted Zodiac Dress

In today’s video tutorial, we’ll crochet a summer dress or tunic using a Design Yarn cake. I named the design Zodiac.

The Design Yarn gradient cake called Sagittarius comes from the Zodiac Signs collection. It is a limited edition of only 100 cakes. The cakes are available in different sizes. Mine had 1,250 metres and weighed 292 grams. It is a three-strand yarn with viscose, which gives it a metallic shine and an elegant, festive look. I used a 2 mm crochet hook. One cake of this size is enough to make a tunic.

I ordered an additional 250-metre mini cake, and with a total of 1,500 metres I crocheted a mini dress to wear over a swimsuit. For a classic knee-length dress, I recommend approximately 1,700 metres for size 42 and a height of 168 cm.

The story behind the dress

During the 2024 season, I experimented with triangular constructions for dresses and tunics. The Sagittarius cake caught my attention with its vibrant colours, which look beautiful in summer outfits. I complemented the airy V-stitch pattern with bobble stitches that create tiny flowers.

One advantage of this design is that the neckline edging is crocheted at the same time as the individual panels. This means it naturally follows the colour transitions of the dress, without the need to unwind the yarn or finish the neckline in a contrasting colour. This is especially useful when working with gradient yarn cakes.

Another practical feature is the drawstring channels at the waist. You can thread a decorative cord through them, gently tighten the dress, accentuate the waist and softly gather the fabric around the tummy area. Now let’s start crocheting!

PATTERN IN CZECH IS HERE

VIDEO TUTORIAL – You can slow down the video directly on YouTube. The video also includes subtitles.

As for the dress or tunic, we will make four sections of the upper part, which will be joined at the shoulder seams. Another useful feature is the decorative edging, which is crocheted together with the individual panels rather than added at the end. This means that the neckline edging has the same colour transitions as the dress.

For the first neckline section, unwind two colour transitions from the cake. Weigh them and divide the total weight into four equal parts. While crocheting, regularly weigh the remaining yarn. This will help you create all four sections in matching colours. I recommend joining the colour transitions only along the outer edge of the pattern. When using a different gradient cake, whether smaller or larger, adjust the number of unwound colour transitions accordingly.

Once the beginning of the yoke and the shoulder straps are finished, crochet the panels together at the neckline and underarms.

For the body of the dress, you can choose between working in rows back and forth or crocheting continuously in the round. Working in rows creates the same pattern appearance as on the shoulder straps, but the dress will have a seam. When crocheting continuously in the round without joining each row, the pattern will look slightly different, but there will be no seam.

The main pattern consists of V-stitches made with double crochet stitches: one double crochet, one chain and one double crochet. In the lower section, we will add a bobble stitch inside the V-stitch to create a small flower pattern. I believe that even a beginner can crochet this dress.

To adjust the size, adapt the upper part of the yoke to your bust measurement. When your bust circumference is larger than mine, crochet more rows. Always use a smaller hook for the upper section. For a child’s size, crochet fewer rows. The front neckline panel is increased differently from the back panel to create partial shaping for the bust.

To shape the lower part of the dress, increase according to your own body shape. I recommend making the first increases below the ribcage. In the flower pattern, increase approximately every second flower. I did not need to make any further increases, but I changed the hook size from 2 mm to 2.5 mm.

With my crochet tension, a 10 cm swatch made with a 2.5 mm hook contains nine pattern repeats. With a 2 mm hook, it contains approximately 9.5 double crochet V-stitch repeats.

TIPS FOR YOU: Measure and try the dress on regularly. It can be worn over a swimsuit, with a slip dress or over a camisole. You can also shorten it into a top using approximately 1,000 metres of yarn or into a tunic using approximately 1,250 metres.

I hope your Zodiac Dress turns out beautifully. I would be delighted to see your photos if you would like to inspire others or share your experience with crocheting and styling the dress. You can share your photos in the Krampolinka Facebook group. On Instagram, please use the hashtag #satyznameni so others can easily find your projects.  If you tag me in your creations made using my patterns, I can reshare them in my Instagram Stories to inspire others.

ZODIAC DRESS

Yarn: Design Yarn gradient cake Sagittarius, or another colourway from the Zodiac Signs collection by Hravá klubka. You can also have your own custom cake made. Three strands with viscose.

Yarn consumption: 1,500 m, 3+1 strands
Size: 42
Measurements: front length 82 cm, width under the bust 44 cm, width at the hips and lower hem 58 cm
Crochet hooks: 2 mm, 2.5 mm and 3 mm
Other supplies: needle and thread matching the yarn, stitch marker, label, thin ribbon matching the yarn cake and safety pin
Estimated time: approximately 40 hours
Suitable for beginners

CH – chain stitch
SL ST – slip stitch
DC – double crochet
DC V-stitch – DC, CH 1, DC into the chain space from the previous row
DC V-stitch with a bobble – DC, 4–5 partially completed yarn-over stitches worked around the DC and joined together, CH 1, DC into the chain space
HDC – half double crochet
SC – single crochet

DRESS YOKE – FRONT PANEL, 2 mm hook

Row 1: CH 5, turn. CH 2 instead of the first DC, DC into the third chain from the hook, CH 1 and 2 DC into the same stitch. Skip 1 stitch, CH 1, work 1 DC V-stitch. Skip 1 stitch, CH 1, work the edge pattern into the last stitch: 2 DC, CH 1, 2 DC. Turn.

Row 2: CH 1, SL ST into the chain space. CH 2 instead of the first DC, DC, CH 1, 2 DC into the same chain space. CH 1, work 1 DC V-stitch into the next chain space. CH 1, work the edge pattern into the next chain space: 2 DC, CH 1, 2 DC. Turn.

Rows 3–7: CH 1, SL ST into the chain space. CH 2 instead of the first DC, DC, CH 1, 2 DC into the same chain space. CH 1, work 1 DC V-stitch, CH 1, then work the edge pattern into the next chain space: 2 DC, CH 1, 2 DC. Turn.

Row 8: CH 1, SL ST into the chain space. CH 2 instead of the first DC, DC, CH 1, 2 DC into the same chain space. CH 1, work DC, CH 1, DC, CH 1, DC into the next chain space. CH 1, work the edge pattern into the next chain space: 2 DC, CH 1, 2 DC. Turn.

Row 9: CH 1, SL ST into the chain space. CH 2 instead of the first DC, DC, CH 1, 2 DC into the same chain space. CH 1, work 2 DC V-stitches, CH 1, then work the edge pattern into the last stitch: 2 DC, CH 1, 2 DC. Turn.

Row 10: CH 1, SL ST into the chain space. CH 2 instead of the first DC, DC, CH 1, 2 DC into the same chain space. CH 1, work 1 DC V-stitch, 1 DC V-stitch between the stitches, and 1 DC V-stitch. CH 1, work the edge pattern into the next chain space: 2 DC, CH 1, 2 DC. Turn.

Row 11: CH 1, SL ST into the chain space. CH 2 instead of the first DC, DC, CH 1, 2 DC into the same chain space. CH 1, work 1 DC V-stitch, then DC, CH 1, DC, CH 1, DC into the next chain space, followed by 1 DC V-stitch. CH 1, work the edge pattern into the last stitch: 2 DC, CH 1, 2 DC. Turn. There are 6 pattern columns.

Row 12: CH 1, SL ST into the chain space. CH 2 instead of the first DC, DC, CH 1, 2 DC into the same chain space. CH 1, work 4 DC V-stitches, CH 1, then work the edge pattern into the last stitch: 2 DC, CH 1, 2 DC. Turn.

Row 13: CH 1, SL ST into the chain space. CH 2 instead of the first DC, DC, CH 1, 2 DC into the same chain space. CH 1, work 2 DC V-stitches, 1 DC V-stitch between the stitches, then 2 DC V-stitches. CH 1, work the edge pattern into the next chain space: 2 DC, CH 1, 2 DC. Turn.

Rows 14–27: Repeat Rows 11–13.

Row 28: CH 1, SL ST into the chain space. CH 2 instead of the first DC, DC, CH 1, 2 DC into the same chain space. CH 1, work 1 DC V-stitch into the chain space at the beginning of the row. Continue with 14 DC V-stitches, then work 1 DC V-stitch into the chain space at the end of the row. CH 1, work the edge pattern into the next chain space: 2 DC, CH 1, 2 DC.

At the end of this row, there are 16 pattern columns in total. Fasten off.

DRESS YOKE – BACK PANEL, 2 mm hook

Join the yarn to the first chain stitch. Crochet the matching panel as a mirror image, but only up to Row 24. In fact, this is Row 23 because the initial foundation chain row is not worked again.

Row 25: CH 1, SL ST into the chain space. CH 2 instead of the first DC, DC, CH 1, 2 DC into the same chain space. CH 1, work 1 DC V-stitch into the chain space at the beginning of the row. Continue with 12 DC V-stitches, then work 1 DC V-stitch into the chain space at the end of the row. CH 1, work the edge pattern into the next chain space: 2 DC, CH 1, 2 DC. Turn.

There are 14 pattern columns in total in this row.

Row 26: CH 1, SL ST into the chain space. CH 2 instead of the first DC, DC, CH 1, 2 DC into the same chain space. CH 1, work 14 DC V-stitches, CH 1, then work the edge pattern into the next chain space: 2 DC, CH 1, 2 DC. Turn.

Row 27: CH 1, SL ST into the chain space. CH 2 instead of the first DC, DC, CH 1, 2 DC into the same chain space. CH 1, work 1 DC V-stitch into the chain space at the beginning of the row. Continue with 14 DC V-stitches, then work 1 DC V-stitch into the chain space at the end of the row. CH 1, work the edge pattern into the next chain space: 2 DC, CH 1, 2 DC. Turn.

There are 16 pattern columns in total in this row.

Row 28: CH 1, SL ST into the chain space. CH 2 instead of the first DC, DC, CH 1, 2 DC into the same chain space. CH 1, work 16 DC V-stitches, CH 1, then work the edge pattern into the next chain space: 2 DC, CH 1, 2 DC. Fasten off.

Do not fasten off after completing the last panel. Arrange the panels so that the working yarn is positioned at the underarm.

JOINING THE YOKE, 2 mm hook

Row 29: Place both panels so that you work on the right side. The working yarn is positioned at the underarm. Continue with the next row: work the edge pattern, CH 1, 1 DC V-stitch into the chain space, 16 DC V-stitches, 1 DC V-stitch into the chain space, CH 1, and the edge pattern.

At the neckline, join the second panel as follows: yarn over, tighten the yarn and insert the hook under the chain space of the next panel. Work the edge pattern to join the neckline sections. Continue across the next panel in the same way: CH 1, 1 DC V-stitch into the chain space, 16 DC V-stitches, 1 DC V-stitch into the chain space, CH 1, and the edge pattern. At the underarm, CH 1 and make 5 foundation chain stitches. Yarn over, insert the hook under the chain space of the edge pattern on the front panel and work the edge pattern.

This joins the back and front panels. Crochet the front panel in the same way as the back panel, including the increases and the neckline join. At the second underarm, CH 1 and make 5 foundation chain stitches. Join the round with a SL ST. Turn.

Row 30: At the underarm, work the edge pattern into the first, third and fifth chain stitches: CH 2, DC, CH 1, 2 DC. Continue with the edge pattern, CH 1 and 1 DC V-stitch into the chain space. Work 18 DC V-stitches, then 1 DC V-stitch into the chain space at the end of the row, CH 1.

At the neckline, work 2 DC, CH 1, DC, leaving the last DC half-finished. Yarn over, insert the hook under the chain space of the next panel and work another half-finished DC. Yarn over and complete both stitches together. Continue the edge pattern with DC, CH 1 and 2 DC into the chain space. CH 1, work 1 DC V-stitch into the chain space, 18 DC V-stitches, 1 DC V-stitch into the chain space, CH 1, and work the edge pattern at the end of the row.

At the underarm, work the edge pattern into the second and fourth chain stitches: 2 DC, CH 1, 2 DC.

Continue across the front panel. Remember to make the increases and work the neckline join in the same way. At the opposite underarm, join the round with a SL ST. Turn.

Row 31: Use SL STs to move into the chain space of the edge pattern. Work CH 2, CH 1, DC into the same chain space. Then work 1 DC V-stitch into the chain space at the beginning of the row and continue working DC V-stitches around the entire circumference. At each underarm, work DC V-stitches both into the chain spaces and between the stitches of the edge patterns, for a total of 5 V-stitches.

At the neckline, work DC V-stitches both into the chain spaces and into the centre of the edge pattern. Finish the row with CH 1 and SC, so that you end in the centre of the chain arch. Turn.

Row 32: Work CH 2, CH 1, DC. Continue with DC V-stitches. Finish the row with CH 1 and SC into the second chain of the turning chain, so that you end in the centre of the chain arch. Turn.

Rows 33–44: Work DC V-stitches. Finish each row with CH 1 and SC into the second chain of the turning chain. Turn after every row.

DRAWSTRING CHANNEL UNDER THE BUST, 2 mm hook

Row 45: CH 1 instead of the first SC. Work the following sequence: SC into the DC, SC into the chain space, SC into the DC of the first V-stitch, then SC into each DC of the second V-stitch. Repeat this sequence to the end of the row. Join with a SL ST. Turn to the wrong side.

Row 46A: CH 2 instead of the first DC. Work DC stitches through the front loop only. Join the row with a SL ST. Fasten off.

Row 46B: Join the yarn at the centre of the front panel, in line with the neckline. CH 2, then continue working on the right side through the front loop only. Finish in the second-to-last stitch. Fasten off.

Row 47: Join the yarn at the underarm. CH 1 instead of the first SC. Crochet both DC rows together using SC stitches. Join the row with a SL ST.

DRESS BODY, 2 mm hook

Row 1: For the first pattern column, CH 2 and work 1 HDC into the same stitch. Skip 2 stitches and work a DC V-stitch: DC, CH 1, DC. Continue as follows: skip 2 stitches and work 1 DC V-stitch into the third stitch. Repeat around. Do not join the row; continue working continuously in the round. Count the V-stitches in this row. The total number of V-stitches must be divisible by 6.

Note: I recommend following the chart, as it is easier to understand than the written instructions.

Row 2: Begin this row only with SC, CH 1 and HDC, then continue with DC V-stitches. Mark the first pattern column of the row with a stitch marker. Work a total of 3 DC V-stitches, then begin the flower pattern with a DC V-stitch with a bobble: work DC into the chain space, wrap the yarn around the DC 4–5 times and crochet the loops together to form a bobble, CH 1, then work DC into the same chain space.

The pattern repeat for this row is: 5 DC V-stitches and 1 DC V-stitch with a bobble. This creates the foundation for 14 flower motifs.

Note: Count the stitches carefully to make sure there are no mistakes in the pattern. This row is always very important because it determines the placement of the pattern in the following rows.

Row 3: Follow the position of the bobbles from the previous row. Work DC V-stitches into the DC V-stitches. When you reach a bobble from the previous row, work a DC V-stitch with a bobble into the pattern column before it and another one into the pattern column after it. Work only a regular DC V-stitch into the centre of the V-stitch with a bobble from the previous row.

The pattern repeat for this row is: 3 DC V-stitches, 1 DC V-stitch with a bobble, 1 DC V-stitch and 1 DC V-stitch with a bobble. There are always 3 DC V-stitches between the flower motifs.

Row 4: Follow the DC V-stitches with bobbles from the previous row. Work DC V-stitches into the DC V-stitches. When you reach the first bobble from the previous row, work a regular DC V-stitch into it. Work a DC V-stitch with a bobble into the DC V-stitch between the two bobbles from the previous row, then work a regular DC V-stitch into the second bobble.

The pattern repeat for this row is: 5 DC V-stitches and 1 DC V-stitch with a bobble.

Rows 5–6: Work only DC V-stitches.

Note: Pay close attention to the correct starting point of the next pattern repeat so that you do not accidentally shorten the row of DC V-stitches.

DRESS BODY, 2.5 mm hook

Row 7: Shift the beginning of the flower pattern to the centre between the motifs from the previous row, so that the flowers are staggered. Work 1 DC V-stitch with a bobble and 5 DC V-stitches.

Note: Check that you have the correct number of V-stitches and that you have not started this row too early. The first DC V-stitch with a bobble should have 6 plain DC V-stitches directly below it. In the following rows, there will be 7 plain DC V-stitches below it.

Row 8: Follow the bobble from the previous row. The pattern repeat for this row is: 3 DC V-stitches, 1 DC V-stitch with a bobble, 1 DC V-stitch and 1 DC V-stitch with a bobble. There are always 3 DC V-stitches between the flower motifs.

Row 9: Follow the DC V-stitches with bobbles from the previous row. The pattern repeat for this row is: 5 DC V-stitches and 1 DC V-stitch with a bobble.

Rows 10–11: Work only DC V-stitches.

Row 12: Shift the beginning of the flower pattern to the centre between the motifs from the previous row, so that the flowers are staggered. Work 1 DC V-stitch with a bobble and 5 DC V-stitches. Check that the first DC V-stitch with a bobble has 7 plain DC V-stitches directly below it.

Row 13: Follow the bobble from the previous row. The pattern repeat for this row is: 3 DC V-stitches, 1 DC V-stitch with a bobble, 1 DC V-stitch and 1 DC V-stitch with a bobble. There are always 3 DC V-stitches between the flower motifs.

Row 14: Follow the DC V-stitches with bobbles from the previous row. The pattern repeat for this row is: 5 DC V-stitches and 1 DC V-stitch with a bobble.

Row 15: INCREASE in the pattern in the same way as for the upper front panels. Work DC, CH 1, DC, CH 1, DC into every 12th DC V-stitch.

Important: Each increase must be positioned in the centre between the motifs of every second pattern repeat.

Row 16: Work DC V-stitches into the DC V-stitches. At each increase, work 1 DC V-stitch into the chain space.

Row 17: Shift the beginning of the flower pattern to the centre between the motifs from the previous row. For every second flower motif, work the DC V-stitch with a bobble at the increase point BETWEEN the DC V-stitches. Work 1 DC V-stitch with a bobble and 6 DC V-stitches.

Continue to maintain 14 flower motifs, but the number of DC V-stitches between the flowers will change.

Row 18: Follow the bobble from the previous row. The pattern repeat for this row is: 4 DC V-stitches, 1 DC V-stitch with a bobble, 1 DC V-stitch and 1 DC V-stitch with a bobble. There are 4 DC V-stitches between the flower motifs.

Row 19: Follow the DC V-stitches with bobbles from the previous row. The pattern repeat for this row is: 6 DC V-stitches and 1 DC V-stitch with a bobble.

Rows 20–21: Work DC V-stitches.

Row 22: Shift the beginning of the flower pattern to the centre between the motifs from the previous row, so that the flowers are staggered. Work 1 DC V-stitch with a bobble and 7 DC V-stitches, then 1 DC V-stitch with a bobble and 5 DC V-stitches.

Check that the first DC V-stitch with a bobble has 7 plain DC V-stitches directly below it.

Row 23: Follow the bobble from the previous row. The pattern repeat for this row is: 5 DC V-stitches, 1 DC V-stitch with a bobble, 1 DC V-stitch, 1 DC V-stitch with a bobble, then 3 DC V-stitches, 1 DC V-stitch with a bobble, 1 DC V-stitch and 1 DC V-stitch with a bobble. There are alternately 3 or 5 DC V-stitches between the flower motifs.

Row 24: Follow the DC V-stitches with bobbles from the previous row. The pattern repeat for this row is: 7 DC V-stitches and 1 DC V-stitch with a bobble, followed by 5 DC V-stitches and 1 DC V-stitch with a bobble. There are alternately 7 or 5 DC V-stitches between the flower motifs.

Rows 25–26: Work DC V-stitches.

Row 27: Shift the beginning of the flower pattern to the centre between the motifs from the previous row, so that the flowers are staggered. Work 1 DC V-stitch with a bobble and 6 DC V-stitches. Repeat to the end of the row. Check that the first DC V-stitch with a bobble has 7 plain DC V-stitches directly below it.

Row 28: Follow the bobble from the previous row. The pattern repeat for this row is: 4 DC V-stitches, 1 DC V-stitch with a bobble, 1 DC V-stitch and 1 DC V-stitch with a bobble. There are 4 DC V-stitches between the flower motifs.

Row 29: Follow the DC V-stitches with bobbles from the previous row. The pattern repeat for this row is: 6 DC V-stitches and 1 DC V-stitch with a bobble.

Rows 30–31: Work DC V-stitches. There are 98 V-stitches around the dress.

Rows 32–48: Repeat the pattern from Rows 22–31.

Row 49: Increase in every 14th V-stitch, making 7 increases in total.

Rows 50–64: Work DC V-stitches. There are 105 V-stitches around the dress. In the final row, work the second-to-last V-stitch as HDC, CH 1, HDC. Work the last V-stitch as SC, CH 1, SC and finish the row with a SL ST.

Note: Adjust the number of rows and the final length according to your height, the yarn used and your own body measurements.

LOWER DRESS EDGING, 3 mm hook

Row 1: CH 1 instead of the first SC. Continue with SC into the DC, SC into the chain space, SC into the DC of the first V-stitch, then SC into each DC of the second V-stitch. Join the row with a SL ST.

Rows 2–3: CH 2 instead of the first DC. Work DC stitches through the back loop only. Join each row with a SL ST.

Row 4: CH 1 instead of the first SC. Work SC stitches through the back loop only. Join the row with a SL ST.

FINISHING

Weave in all loose ends. Sew on the label. Thread a narrow ribbon through the drawstring channel and tie it into a bow.