Crocheted Big Sublime Shorts with an Elastic Waistband

Just like you, I was tempted to crochet a pair of shorts. A knitted elastic waistband and a set of silk yarns from Klubíčka od srdíčka were perfect for this project.

The Big Sublime yarn gift box from Klubíčka od srdíčka contains four separate yarn cakes, each with approximately 250 metres of yarn. The yarn is made from several strands of 100% Italian silk twisted together into one thread. Its equivalent yardage is approximately 100 g/320 metres.

This beautifully soft and shiny material is suitable for everything from tops and wraps to shawls and boleros. Silk adapts naturally to the skin. It is soft, breathable, temperature-regulating and has a beautiful drape. What more could you wish for from spring to autumn?

This pattern was created in 2022, and the box also included a firm knitted elastic waistband. I have had the best experience with this type of elastic, and it is also ideal for crocheted skirts. It can be difficult to find, but Klubickaodsrdicka.cz stocks it. Search for a firm 5 cm mesh waistband elastic or knitted elastic.

Do not use tutu elastic or a thinner elastic band, as it would not support the finished garment properly and could snap. This time, I decided to crochet a pair of shorts directly onto the firm knitted elastic. For size 40–42, I cut a 77 cm length of elastic, plus an extra 4 cm for joining the ends. We need a total of 160 spaces. Crochet one row of double crochet stitches onto the elastic. Be careful to work into the firm lower loop, not into the connecting thread.

Despite the thickness of Big Sublime, I started with a 2 mm crochet hook and gradually increased the hook size up to 3 mm.

CZECH PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS HERE

VIDEO TUTORIAL – You can slow down the video directly on YouTube.

The shorts are worked in rows. At the end of each row, turn your work and crochet back in the opposite direction. Keep counting your stitches to make sure you do not accidentally increase at the seam at the end of the row. For the seat section, crochet 15–20 rows without increasing. Adjust the number of rows to suit your own body shape. The fewer rows you crochet, the lower the rise of the shorts will be. For example, 10 rows without increases will create short, underwear-style shorts with a lower rise. Twenty rows will create a similar style with a higher waist.

For my shorts, I worked 18 rows without increasing. Instead of increasing at the beginning, I gradually changed the hook size from 2 mm to 2.5 mm and finally to 3 mm. To increase the shorts and shape the legs, divide your work into four equal sections. Place safety pins at the centre front and centre back. You can use a regular stitch marker at each side to make counting the stitches easier.

At the safety-pin markers, work two double crochet stitches into the same stitch. In the following rows, work one double crochet into each double crochet from the previous row and two double crochet stitches into the space marked with the safety pin. Be careful. Because the work is turned after every row, mistakes are most likely to occur at these increase points. Without marking them clearly, it is easy to increase in the wrong place. Pay close attention when counting, as the stitch numbers around the increase points shift slightly when working back and forth in rows.

The main part of the shorts is worked in standard double crochet stitches. Working back and forth in rows creates a textured fabric, so you can wear only underwear underneath the shorts. Once the front and back sections have been joined at the increase points, crochet each leg separately. Adjust the length according to your preference. I chose an openwork pattern for the lower section to make the design look lighter and more airy.

How can you determine the correct rise? I recommend joining the front and back sections temporarily with a safety pin and trying the shorts on. You can also compare them with a pair of shorts that fits you well.

I hope your shorts turn out beautifully. If you would like to inspire others or share your experience with crocheting or styling the shorts, I would be delighted to see your photos. You can share your photos in the Krampolinka Facebook group. On Instagram, please use the hashtag #kratasybigsublime so others can easily find your projects.  If you tag me in your creations made using my patterns, I can reshare them in my Instagram Stories to inspire others.

 

Big Sublime Shorts

Material: Big Sublime silk yarn from Klubickaodsrdicka.cz or a similar yarn with a yardage of approximately 100 g/320 m
Yarn consumption: 1,000 metres
Crochet hooks: 2 mm, 2.5 mm and 3 mm
Measurements: leg width 31 cm, rise 28 cm
Size: 40–42, height 168 cm

You will also need:
a large-eye yarn needle, 2 safety pins, 1 stitch marker and a 5 cm wide knitted elastic waistband

Abbreviations used:

CH – chain
DC – double crochet
SL ST – slip stitch
SC – single crochet
TR – treble crochet

Instructions

Work into the loop of the elastic waistband. At the end of each row, join with a slip stitch. TURN the work and crochet back in the opposite direction. Two chains count as the turning chain for one double crochet.

Shorts, 2 mm crochet hook

Row 1: Work 243 DC directly into the elastic waistband. Begin approximately 2 cm from the edge of the elastic. Join the row with a SL ST. Leave approximately 2 cm of elastic free at the other end for joining.

Shorts, 2.5 mm crochet hook

Rows 2–10: CH 2 as the turning chain for one DC. Work DC into each DC. At the end of the row, work one DC into the turning-chain stitch and join with a SL ST. Turn the work and crochet back in the opposite direction. (243)

Shorts, 3 mm crochet hook

Rows 11–18: CH 2 as the turning chain for one DC. Work DC into each DC. At the end of the row, work one DC into the turning-chain stitch and join with a SL ST. Turn the work and crochet back in the opposite direction. (243)

Row 19: Divide the shorts into four sections. Place a safety pin in the 61st DC to mark the centre front, where increases will be worked every other row. Place a stitch marker in the next 61st stitch to mark the side. Place a second safety pin in the next 61st stitch and use a different colour to mark the centre back, where increases will be worked in every row. You should have 60 stitches remaining to the end of the row. (243)

Work DC into each DC. At each safety-pin marker, work 2 DC into the same stitch. At the end of the row, work one DC into the turning-chain stitch and join with a SL ST. Turn. (245)

Row 20: CH 2 as the turning chain for one DC. Crochet to the front safety-pin marker. Skip the first DC. Work 2 DC between the two DC from the previous row, then work one DC into the second of those two DC. Continue working DC into each DC.

At the back section, work one DC into the first of the two DC from the previous row, then work 2 DC between the two DC and one DC into the second of the two DC. This increases the back section by two stitches.

Complete the row. At the end, work one DC into the turning-chain stitch and join with a SL ST. Turn.

Row 21: CH 2 as the turning chain for one DC. Crochet to the back safety-pin marker. Work one DC into the first of the two DC, 2 DC between the two DC from the previous row, and one DC into the second of the two DC.

Continue working DC into each DC. At the front section, work one DC into the first of the two DC from the previous row, 2 DC between the two DC, and one DC into the second of the two DC.

Complete the row. At the end, work one DC into the turning-chain stitch and join with a SL ST. Turn.

Rows 22–28: CH 2 as the turning chain for one DC. Repeat Rows 20 and 21. Increase every other row at the front and in every row at the back.

Note: Two yarn cakes are used for the main body of the shorts. Once you begin the third cake, start trying the shorts on regularly. Adjust the number of increase rows to suit your hip measurement and the required rise. Fasten off in the final row.

Shorts Legs – Openwork Pattern, 3 mm Crochet Hook

Row 1: Pull the yarn through between the two DC stitches of the front and back sections and CH 2 as the turning chain for one DC. This joins the crotch of the shorts.

Continue crocheting around one leg opening. Work DC into each DC around the leg. Adjust the stitch count so that it is divisible by 18. Increase approximately five times by working an increase into every 20th stitch. You should have a total of 144 DC.

Join the row with a SL ST. Do not turn the work. Continue crocheting in the same direction.

Row 2: CH 2 as the turning chain for one DC, then work 3 DC. Skip 3 stitches and CH 4. Work 3 TR together into the fourth stitch, then CH 4.

Pattern repeat to the end of the row: skip 3 stitches, work one DC into the fourth stitch and then work 10 more DC into the following stitches (11 DC in total). CH 4, skip 3 stitches, work 3 TR together, skip 3 stitches and CH 4.

Repeat the pattern to the end of the row. Join with a SL ST. You should have eight pattern repeats.

Row 3: CH 2 as the turning chain for one DC. CH 5 into the pattern and work 2 TR together. Work one SC under the chain space, one SC into the joining stitch and one SC under the next chain space. CH 5 and work 2 TR together.

Pattern repeat to the end of the row: skip 3 stitches. Beginning in the fourth stitch, work one DC and then 4 more DC into the following stitches (5 DC in total). CH 5 and work 2 TR together. Work one SC under the chain space, one SC into the joining stitch and one SC under the next chain space. CH 5 and work 2 TR together.

Repeat the pattern to the end of the row. Join with a SL ST.

Row 4: CH 2 as the turning chain for one DC.

Pattern repeat: CH 7. Work one SC into the first SC, one SC into the second SC and one SC into the final SC from the previous row. CH 7, then work one DC into the first DC and 4 more DC into the following stitches (5 DC in total).

Repeat the pattern to the end of the row. Join with a SL ST.

Row 5: CH 2 as the turning chain for one DC. Work 3 DC under the chain space. CH 4 or 5 and work 3 TR together into the middle SC. CH 4 or 5.

Pattern repeat to the end of the row: work 3 DC under the chain space, 5 DC into the DC stitches, 3 DC under the next chain space, CH 4 or 5 and work 3 TR together into the middle SC. CH 4 or 5.

Repeat the pattern to the end of the row. Join with a SL ST.

Shorts Legs – Edging, 2.5 mm Crochet Hook

Row 6: CH 2 as the turning chain for one DC. Work DC into each DC. Work 4 DC under the chain space, one DC into the joining stitch and 4 DC under the next chain space.

Repeat to the end of the row. Join with a SL ST.

Row 7: CH 1 as the turning chain for one SC and work one SC next to the turning chain.

Pattern repeat: skip 2 stitches and work a shell of 5 DC into the third stitch. Skip one stitch and work one SC into the following stitch.

Repeat to the end of the row. Fasten off in the final row. Repeat the same instructions for the second leg.

Note: Adjust the number of rows according to the required leg length.

Finishing

Weave in all loose yarn ends. I recommend sewing the ends of the elastic waistband together using a sewing machine. Add a decorative label if desired.