Crochet Meduza Top or Vest with Ruffles

In today’s video tutorial, we’ll crochet a romantic top or vest using a gradient yarn cake. It’s a versatile piece that can be worn all year round. In summer, you can wear it directly on the skin as a light and airy top, while in cooler months it works beautifully as a vest layered over a shirt, blouse, or dress.

For this project, I used a Yellyfish gradient yarn cake. It is a finer three-strand yarn made from acrylic fibre, cotton, and a variegated cotton thread. Although it is a three-strand yarn, it is softer and thinner than a standard three-strand gradient yarn cake. The colour combination I used was part of a limited edition. For this particular top, I used two 500-metre yarn cakes, which means approximately 1,000 metres of yarn in total.

If you would like to add a ruffle or gathered sleeve to the top, I recommend purchasing an additional yarn cake in the final colour of the gradient. Depending on the desired length and fullness of the ruffle, allow approximately 100–200 metres of extra yarn.

The Story Behind the Top

Last year, we unboxed some beautiful Yellyfish gradient yarn cakes together, and that was also when the unusual Amber Vest with a pineapple stitch pattern and the Šestka Bag were created. I really enjoyed crocheting these unconventional designs, and even back then I started wondering how a similar concept might work as a top. I already had a fairly clear idea in mind – buttons, ruffles, and plenty of romantic detail.

This year, just before the summer holidays began, the Yellyfish yarn cakes somehow found their way back into my hands. I chose a square motif, adjusted the way the increases were worked, and gradually developed the entire construction until I had a light and versatile top.

And believe me, I fell in love with it so much while crocheting that this definitely won’t be the only one. I already have at least one more version in mind, and I’m really looking forward to making it.

CZECH PATTERN HERE.

VIDEO TUTORIAL PREMIERE – PART I – Includes instructions for the front and back stitch pattern and for joining the back panels with crochet. You can slow down the video directly on YouTube and turn on subtitles.

VIDEO TUTORIAL PREMIERE – PART II – Includes instructions for the edging, buttonholes, and ruffles. You can slow down the video directly on YouTube and turn on subtitles.

As for the construction, the top is made from two unfinished squares, with each panel crocheted from one gradient yarn cake. If you are worried that your tension may be tighter or looser when making the second panel, I recommend working on both pieces alternately. For example, crochet two rows on the first panel and then two rows on the second. This will make it easier to keep both pieces the same size and maintain an even tension.

Once we reach the required armhole height, we crochet a chain in the final row of the pattern and join the two upper corners of the panel. This creates half of the front and half of the back of the top on each piece. Next, we count the required depth of the front and back neckline, join the yarn, and continue working the pattern back and forth in rows. In this way, we gradually build the required neckline width and, at the same time, the width of the top.

Once both pieces are finished, we crochet them together at the centre back. The front can be joined in the same way if you do not want the top to open. If you are planning a button fastening, leave the front open. Using the remaining yarn from both gradient cakes, we then crochet the required length of the front section. Once a particular colour section from one yarn cake has been used up, continue with the corresponding colour section from the second cake. This helps to preserve the colour transitions as smoothly as possible.

Next, crochet the edging around the front opening, shoulder straps, back neckline, and entire lower edge of the top. In the second row of the front edging, work the buttonholes at the same time. Use the final colour section to crochet around the armholes. Depending on the version you choose, you can then add a ruffle or gathered sleeve, and use the same colour for the decorative neckline edging.

Finally, sew on the buttons, weave in all ends, and the top is finished.

How to Adjust the Size

The construction of the top can be adapted quite easily to your own measurements. The size is mainly adjusted by changing the armhole height, neckline width, and overall length of the top. If you need a lower armhole, you can compensate by making the shoulder strap longer. The neckline width can be adjusted by changing the number of rows worked back and forth, while the overall length of the top can be changed by adding or removing rows at the bottom.

Thanks to this construction, the top can therefore be adapted quite easily to the desired size and length.

How to Wear the Top

Thanks to its construction, this top is very versatile and can be worn throughout the year. In summer, it can be worn directly on the body, for example with shorts, a skirt, or wide-leg trousers. During spring and autumn, it works beautifully as a vest layered over a shirt, blouse, or simple dress. The ruffled sleeves and decorative neckline edging emphasise its romantic look, while without the ruffles the top has a simpler and more versatile style. Thanks to the button fastening, you can wear it fully buttoned, partly open, or loose over another layer.

I hope you enjoy making your Meduza Top or Vest. If you would like to inspire others or share your experience with crocheting or styling your top or vest, I would be very happy to see your photos. You can share your photos in the Krampolinka Facebook group. On Instagram, please use the hashtag #topmeduza so others can easily find your projects.  If you tag me in your creations made using my patterns, I can reshare them in my Instagram Stories to inspire others.

Yarn: three-strand gradient yarn cake from the S láskou by Nikol online shop – please note that these are limited-edition colourways, so plan your yarn requirements carefully
Yarn amount: 2 × 500 m gradient yarn cakes, plus a separate yarn cake in the final colour of the gradient, approximately 100–200 m
Crochet hook: 2.5 mm and 3 mm Tulip crochet hooks
Measurements: width 56 cm, length 58 cm
Other supplies: tapestry needle, sewing needle and matching thread, 6 small buttons, decorative label
Estimated time: 24 hours
Skill level: Beginner

CH – chain
MR – magic ring
SC – single crochet
DC – double crochet
HSC – herringbone single crochet
TR – treble crochet

HALF OF THE FRONT AND BACK PANEL – 2.5 mm HOOK

Row 1: Into the MR, crochet 3 CH instead of the first DC, then 2 DC. The corner is formed by 2 CH. Crochet 3 DC into the MR (3 times). Finish the row with a SL ST into the second chain of the turning chain. Turn. You have now created a small square.

Row 2: CH 3 as a substitute for the first DC. In the corner, crochet DC-CH 2-2 DC. Continue with DC into DC (3 times), then 2 DC-CH 2-2 DC in the corner. Repeat twice. Finish the row with 2 DC-CH 2-DC in the corner and DC into the third chain of the turning chain. Turn.

Row 3: CH 3 as a substitute for the first DC. In the corner, crochet DC into the CH-space, CH 2, 2 DC. DC into DC (3 times), CH 1 and skip one stitch. DC into DC (3 times), then crochet 2 DC-CH 2-2 DC in the corner. Repeat twice. Finish the row with 2 DC-CH 2-DC in the corner and DC into the third chain of the turning chain. Turn.

Row 4: CH 3 as a substitute for the first DC. In the corner, crochet DC into the CH-space, CH 2, 2 DC. DC into DC (3 times), CH 3, skip two stitches and SC into the CH-space. Work symmetrically: CH 3, skip two stitches, DC into DC (3 times), then crochet 2 DC-CH 2-2 DC in the corner. Repeat twice. Finish the row with 2 DC-CH 2-DC in the corner and DC into the third chain of the turning chain. Turn.

Row 5: CH 3 as a substitute for the first DC. In the corner, crochet DC into the CH-space, CH 2, 2 DC. DC into DC (3 times), CH 3, skip two stitches, SC into the arch, CH 3 and SC into the next arch. Work symmetrically: CH 3, skip two stitches, DC into DC (3 times), then crochet 2 DC-CH 2-2 DC in the corner. Repeat twice. Finish the row with 2 DC-CH 2-DC in the corner and DC into the third chain of the turning chain. Turn.

Row 6: CH 3 as a substitute for the first DC. In the corner, crochet DC into the CH-space, CH 2, 2 DC. DC into DC (5 times), 2 DC into the first arch, CH 3, SC into the arch. Work symmetrically: CH 3, 2 DC into the arch, DC into DC (5 times), then crochet 2 DC-CH 2-2 DC in the corner. Repeat twice. Finish the row with 2 DC-CH 2-DC in the corner and DC into the third chain of the turning chain. Turn.

Row 7: CH 3 as a substitute for the first DC. In the corner, crochet DC into the CH-space, CH 2, 2 DC. DC into DC (9 times), 2 DC into the arch, CH 1. Work symmetrically: 2 DC into the arch, DC into DC (9 times), then crochet 2 DC-CH 2-2 DC in the corner. Repeat twice. Finish the row with 2 DC-CH 2-DC in the corner and DC into the third chain of the turning chain. Turn.

Row 8: CH 3 as a substitute for the first DC. In the corner, crochet DC into the CH-space, CH 2, 2 DC. DC into DC (13 times), 1 DC into the arch. Work symmetrically: DC into DC (13 times), then crochet 2 DC-CH 2-2 DC in the corner. Repeat twice. Finish the row with 2 DC-CH 2-DC in the corner and DC into the third chain of the turning chain. Turn.

Note: The stitch pattern repeats over 6 rows. At both the beginning and end of each side, one additional pattern repeat is added. Continue increasing until one side contains seven pattern repeats.

Row 9: CH 3 as a substitute for the first DC. In the corner, crochet DC into the CH-space, CH 2, 2 DC. Continue with DC into DC (3 times), CH 1 and skip one stitch. DC into DC (11 times), CH 1 and skip one stitch. Crochet DC into DC (3 times), then work 2 DC-CH 2-2 DC in the corner. Repeat twice. Finish the row with 2 DC-CH 2-DC in the corner and DC into the third chain of the turning chain. Turn.

Note: At the beginning and end of one side of the panel, including the two DC worked into the CH-space, there are 5 DC in total. There are 11 DC between the pattern sections. For the centre pattern repeat, check that the CH is positioned above the DC that was worked into the CH-space. This is a useful checkpoint to make sure the pattern is correct.

Row 10: CH 3 as a substitute for the first DC. In the corner, crochet DC into the CH-space, CH 2, 2 DC. DC into DC (3 times), skip two stitches, CH 3 and SC into the CH-space. Work symmetrically: CH 3, skip two stitches and DC into DC (7 times). Skip two stitches, CH 3, SC into the CH-space, CH 3 and DC into DC (3 times). In the corner, crochet 2 DC-CH 2-2 DC. Repeat twice. Finish the row with 2 DC-CH 2-DC in the corner and DC into the third chain of the turning chain. Turn.

Row 11: CH 3 as a substitute for the first DC. In the corner, crochet DC into the CH-space, CH 2, 2 DC. DC into DC (3 times), CH 3, skip two stitches, SC into the arch, CH 3 and SC into the next arch, CH 3, skip two stitches, DC into DC (3 times). Skip two stitches, CH 3 and SC into the first arch, CH 3 and SC into the second arch, CH 3, skip two stitches, DC into DC (3 times). In the corner, crochet 2 DC-CH 2-2 DC. Repeat twice. Finish the row with 2 DC-CH 2-DC in the corner and DC into the third chain of the turning chain. Turn.

Row 12: CH 3 as a substitute for the first DC. In the corner, crochet DC into the CH-space, CH 2, 2 DC. DC into DC (5 times), 2 DC into the first arch, CH 3, SC into the arch, CH 3, 2 DC into the arch, DC into DC (3 times). Crochet 2 DC into the arch, CH 3, SC into the arch, CH 3, 2 DC into the arch, DC into DC (5 times), then work 2 DC-CH 2-2 DC in the corner. Repeat twice. Finish the row with 2 DC-CH 2-DC in the corner and DC into the third chain of the turning chain. Turn.

Row 13: CH 3 as a substitute for the first DC. In the corner, crochet DC into the CH-space, CH 2, 2 DC. DC into DC (9 times), 2 DC into the arch, CH 1, 2 DC into the arch, DC into DC (7 times). Crochet 2 DC into the arch, CH 1, 2 DC into the arch, DC into DC (9 times), then work 2 DC-CH 2-2 DC in the corner. Repeat twice. Finish the row with 2 DC-CH 2-DC in the corner and DC into the third chain of the turning chain. Turn.

Row 14: CH 3 as a substitute for the first DC. In the corner, crochet DC into the CH-space, CH 2, 2 DC. DC into DC (13 times), 1 DC into the CH-space, DC into DC (11 times), 1 DC into the CH-space, DC into DC (13 times), then work 2 DC-CH 2-2 DC in the corner. Repeat twice. Finish the row with 2 DC-CH 2-DC in the corner and DC into the third chain of the turning chain. Turn.

Rows 15–20: Repeat Rows 9–14.

JOINING THE SHOULDER STRAPS – 2.5 mm HOOK

In Row 20, join the shoulder straps using 10–15 chains to create a flexible chain. Try the piece on to check whether the armhole is deep enough. Then continue crocheting the pattern from the neckline on the front panel to the neckline on the back panel.

Note: At this stage, adjust the depth of both the front and back necklines. The more pattern repeats you crochet, the wider the top will become.

CROCHETING THE NECKLINE / ADJUSTING THE WIDTH OF THE TOP – 2.5 mm HOOK

Work the following rows back and forth, keeping the same number of flower motifs throughout. For both the front and back neckline, I left out two flower motifs. If you prefer a shallower neckline, leave out only one flower motif. Join the yarn in the seventh stitch, i.e. halfway between two pattern repeats, counting from the DC worked into the CH-space.

Rows 21–32: Repeat Rows 9–14. At the beginning and end of each row, you will have 6 – 4 – 2 – 4 – 6 stitches. Always make sure that each new pattern repeat is positioned above the previous one.

For the neckline, I worked two rows of flower motifs. At the end of the final row, fasten off and crochet the opposite section in the same way. Do not fasten off at the end of the final row of the second section. Use this yarn to crochet the two pieces together.

JOINING THE BACK – 2.5 mm HOOK

Join the pieces on the wrong side. Place both panels together with their right sides facing each other. Crochet through both loops using loose SL ST to join the two pieces. Fasten off.

EXTENDING THE FRONT LENGTH – 2.5 mm HOOK

Rows 1–6: Join the yarn in the lower corner. Work back and forth across the entire lower section and crochet one full pattern repeat. Into the CH-space, crochet CH 3 and 1 DC, then continue by repeating Rows 9–14. Finish with a solid row of DC.

Note: At the centre back, where the two pieces were joined, there should also be 11 DC between the pattern repeats. At the beginning of the rows, you will have 5 – 3 – 1 – 3 – 5 stitches.

ARMHOLE EDGING – 2.5–3 mm HOOK

Choose the hook size depending on how much you need to tighten the armhole.

Row 1: Join the yarn at the centre of the armhole, in the middle DC. CH 1, then work HSC into the next stitch (I recommend watching the video tutorial for this stitch). Continue with 3 HSC along each horizontal row. Work around the shoulder strap in the same pattern, crocheting HSC into the loops of the flexible chain. Be careful not to twist your work. At the end of the shoulder strap, continue around the armhole, working 3 HSC along each horizontal row. Finish the round with a SL ST.

Note: If the edging starts to ripple, adjust the stitch distribution, for example by alternating 3 HSC – 2 HSC. However, keep in mind that the following rows will use the same stitch pattern, which will make the armhole smaller and firmer. Make sure you do not reduce the armhole too much.

Rows 2–3: CH 1 instead of the first SC, then work HSC through the back loop only. Finish the round with a SL ST.

EDGING AROUND THE TOP AND BUTTONHOLES – 3 mm HOOK

Row 1: Join the yarn at the side of the top. CH 1, then work HSC into each DC. At the lower corner, work 2 HSC into the same stitch and continue along the front opening. Along the section worked in horizontal rows, crochet 2 HSC per horizontal row. Then continue with HSC into each DC. At the upper corner of the neckline, work 2 HSC into the same stitch. Along the section worked in horizontal rows, crochet 2 HSC per row, and along the shoulder strap work HSC into each DC. Continue around the shoulder strap and work the back neckline in the same way as the front. Finish the round with a SL ST.

Row 2: In this row, make the buttonholes along the front opening on the right side of the top. CH 1 instead of the first HSC. Work HSC through the back loop only. At the lower corner of the top, work 2 HSC into the same stitch. I made 6 buttonholes on the front. Crochet 2 HSC, CH 3, skip 2 stitches. Then crochet 17 HSC, CH 3, skip 2 stitches (repeat 5 times). At the upper corner of the top, work 2 HSC into the same stitch, then continue with HSC around the entire front and back sections. Finish the round with a SL ST.

Row 3: CH 1 instead of the first HSC and work HSC through the back loop only. At both the lower and upper corners, work 2 HSC into the same stitch. Into each buttonhole CH-space, work 3 SC. Finish the round with a SL ST. Fasten off.

DECORATIVE NECKLINE EDGING – 2.5 mm HOOK

Join the yarn at the upper corner of the top and CH 1 instead of the first SC. CH 2, then work SC into the same stitch and skip one stitch. The pattern repeat is: CH 2, SC-CH 2-SC into the same stitch, skip one stitch. Repeat the pattern across the front, around the back neckline, and along the opposite front neckline. Fasten off at the opposite upper corner of the top.

SLEEVE RUFFLE – 3 mm HOOK

Row 1: On the front section, count 42 stitches from the centre of the armhole and place a stitch marker. On the back section, count 24 stitches and place another marker. Crochet the ruffle between the two markers. CH 2 instead of the first DC, CH 1, and work 1 DC into the same stitch, CH 1. The ruffle pattern consists of V-stitches: DC-CH 1-DC into the same stitch, CH 1, skip one stitch. At the end of the row, attach the edge to the armhole with a SL ST. Turn and use SL ST to move into the next CH-space.

Row 2: CH 2 instead of the first DC, CH 1, and work 1 DC into the same CH-space, CH 1. Into the gap between two V-stitches, work DC-CH 1-DC, CH 1. Into the CH-space of the next V-stitch, work DC-CH 1-DC, CH 1. Skip the following gap. The sequence for this row is: V-stitch into V-stitch, V-stitch into the gap, V-stitch into V-stitch, skip the next gap. Remember to crochet CH 1 between each V-stitch. At the end of the row, attach the edge to the armhole with a SL ST. Turn and use SL ST to move into the next CH-space.

Row 3: CH 3 instead of the first TR, CH 1, then work 1 TR into the same CH-space, CH 1. Into each V-stitch, crochet TR-CH 1-TR, CH 1. At the end of the row, attach the edge to the armhole with a SL ST. Turn and use SL ST to move into the next CH-space.

Row 4: CH 3 instead of the first TR, CH 1, then work 1 TR into the same CH-space, CH 1. Into each V-stitch, crochet TR-CH 1-TR, CH 1. At the end of the row, attach the edge to the armhole with a SL ST. Fasten off.

FINISHING

Weave in all loose ends. Add a decorative label.